This is 2020, which means most plans or ideas have had to change - Nick and I wanted to put together and after work "Hot Lap" meeting once a month starting earlier this year, but didn't feel comfortable with the current state of things amidst COVID. It's now September, and we're thinking of getting these going, but appreciate your thoughts. Please consider filling out the survey below - if we get enough positive feedback and good feelings about social distancing, we'll get this party started! 

The 2020 ride schedule would look a little something like this, pending National Forests are Open and COVID status:

September: Post Canyon, OR
October: Sandy Ride, OR
November: Syncline, WA
December: Gravel Grind in The Dalles

All ride participants would be eligible for a schwas drawing at the end of the year: Race Face Handlebars, Chris King water bottles, Dumondetech Chain lube, Dakine Hip packs & more!

Your torso is your powerhouse -- you can have the strongest legs in the world, but if you have a weak core, you'll notice you won't be able to use that leg power as well or as effectively as if you had a strong torso. Chances are technical climbs are pretty difficult for you, and long days out on the bike leave you hurting in more ways than one. If your core is weak, your spine and legs have less support and what were little aches and pains throughout your body, specifically your low back, will become more prominent. Not only is a strong core vital to preventing injury, when it is conditioned and well trained, your performance, strength, coordination and balance will also improve.

WHAT IS YOUR CORE?

Your “core” encompasses your abdominal and mid to low back muscles (rectus abdominus, transverses abdominus, obliques, erector spinae, mulitifidi, latissimus dorsi, and more). These muscles provide stability to both the upper and lower body in all activities: walking, sitting, skipping, cycling, etc., as well as protect your spine.
​
Here are some cycling-specific core exercises to strengthen your powerhouse, prevent injury, and improve your cycling. Whenever possible, start basic with some "bracing" exercises, similar to as you do while riding, and progress as your strength and stamina improve! ​

*These exercises may not be suitable for some individuals. Consult your physician before trying any of these movements.*

1. HIGH PLANK: The plank is the most basic of core bracing exercises. 

Place your hands on the floor, wrists aligned with shoulders, as though you're about to do a pushup. Feet are shoulder width apart, and your spine is neutral (Avoid dipping at your hips or hyperextending at your knees). Ground your toes to the floor, engage your core, squeeze your glutes and press upward through your hands/shoulders. Focus your gaze at a spot on the floor about a foot in front of your hands, and keep a nice neutral spine as you hold the position. Hold until you can no longer maintain a neutral spine. Don't forget to breathe! ​Complete 3 rounds.

Want more of a challenge? Only progress as you are able while keep your hips level, core braced.
​
+ High plank on a BOSU.
+ Tap your feet: From a high plank, move your right foot outward, then return to original position. Move your left foot outward, then return to original position. Alternating sides, repeat for x 10 each.
+ Shoulder Taps: From a high plank, tap your left shoulder with your right hand, then return to high plank. Tap your right shoulder with your left hand, and return to high plank. Alternating sides, repeat for 10 each. Do this on the flat side of a BOSU for even more of a challenge!
+ Up-downs: From a high plank, lower yourself to your forearms, then push yourself back up, one hand at a time to a high plank. Repeat for x 5 each side.
+ Single-arm high plank.
+ Single-arm high plank on the flat side of a BOSU ball.
+ Extra credit: From a high plank, jump your feet forward to just behind your hands, knees slightly bent. Jump back to plank, then forward again, but this time with straight legs. Continue alternating "tuck" movements for a full core workout!

Want more of a challenge? Only progress as you are able while keep your hips level. If you find your hips dropping on one side or the other, go back a step.

​+ Add weight: Hold a dumbbell, phonebook or your best friend's dog over your pelvis, and bridge away!
+ Add in the arms: Prior to lifting your hips upward, lift your arms up so your wrists are directly over your shoulders. Keep them there and bridge upward.
+ Do it one leg at a time: If you're able to perform a standard  bridge, and keep your hips level, give this a try! From the hook lying position, bring your left leg towards your chest. Keep your right foot on the floor, drive through your heel, and while keeping your hips level, lift them up towards the ceiling. Perform a series of reps, while actively keeping your left leg as close to the body as possible, then switch sides. Tip: Try holding a tennis ball in the leg folded up to your chest for the entirety of the exercise.
+ Marching: From the hooklying starting position, perform a "kegel", and bridge upward through both feet. Stabilize yourself, and proceed to slowly lift your right foot off the ground. Return your right foot to the ground, then lift the left foot off the ground, returning it to the ground. This is a stability exercise and is to be done slowly. Repeat the exercise, alternating legs, for a total of 10 each side. Complete 3 rounds. If you're comfortable here, add in the arms! 

By now you're probably ready for some active core work... ​

3. KETTLEBELL (KB) SWING: The swing is an active movement that addresses the posterior chain, by driving a kettlebell (KB) in a pendulum motion from between the knees to anywhere eye level to overhead.

To properly perform a KB swing, you are swinging the kettlebell via your hips and legs, not your arms, "It's all in the hips"!

To start the swing, while standing upright, hold a KB with both hands between your legs via straight arms. From here, soften the knees, and hinge at the hips, letting your butt descend down and backward. Then, brace with your core, and quickly stand, driving your hips forward via one big "thrust" - you'll feel the KB swing forward and up. The bigger the thrust, the higher the end elevation of the KB. For those with a shoulder history, aim to swing no higher than eye level. As the KB descends, shift your weight back into your heels, and allow yourself to hinge forward at the hips, receiving the KB as it swings back in between your legs. Once the KB reaches its most backward trajectory, drive through your heels and hips to bring the KB into the upward part of the swing. Repeat for reps. 

TIPS: Work to keep your feet flat on the floor for the entirety of the movement. There is a tendency to roll your feet outward at the bottom of the movement to give the KB space - resist this! This is an ongoing challenge for me too!

4. EXERCISE BALL SIT-UP: Simple, but effective.

Sitting upright on a large exercise ball, brace your core, and slowly lower your torso backwards on the ball. Keep your torso straight, and avoid tucking your chin. Once your torso is level with the floor, sit up using your abdominals, while still holding that original abdominal "brace/kegel". Keep your chin up, and think about reaching it up and forward as you sit up.

Tip: Its common for the exercise ball to roll slightly as you situp, however, root through your feet and actively avoid the ball's roll as you sit up.

See you on the trail,
​
Kim Hardin
ACE Certified Personal Trainer


About the Author: Kim Russell has a B.S. in Human Physiology and is an ACE certified personal trainer. She is a retired Professional Whitewater Paddler of over 12 years, most notable winning the Little White Salmon Downriver Race in 2015, and in the same year was nominated for Canoe and Kayak Female Paddler of the Year. After a shoulder surgery in 2012, Kim turned her focus to racing Enduro on pedal bikes, with notable wins such as the North American Enduro Cup (2016/2017), Cascadia Dirt Cup Overall (2016/2017), 2nd at Transcascadia 5 day enduro (2018), 2nd at Andes Pacifico 5-day enduro (2020) as well as various top finishes in the Enduro World Series (Colombia, Madeira, Italy, Chile, Argentina). She is also a PMBIA certified Level 1 MTB Instructor, and loves sharing her passion of riding with others. She is a small business owner, operating KickStand Coffee and Kitchen in Hood River, Oregon alongside her husband Nick.

Our first recommended stop is “Chipe Libre,” the Independent Republic of Pisco. Known for their Pisco tasting flights, and small snacks, it’s a great place to shake off the jetlag, taste some pisco and see a bit of the city. First things first, however, Pisco! The origins of pisco took place in colonial times in the XVII century as wine producers were struggling to produce wine for the city of Potosi. The Atacama Desert proved such an obstacle that the wine was not getting to Potosi in a drinkable state, so producers started to distill the wine and import it through a port in Southern Peru named “Pisco”. This distilled wine eventually became known as “Pisco” -- Peruvians claim it is due to the name of the port and area, while Chileans believe it is the generic name of the spirit and should be used by each country to define the spirit. To this day, the argument remains, as does Chilean Pisco and Peruvian Pisco.

Unique to the spirit, regulations state that Peruvian pisco can be made with a range of eight grapes, must be distilled only once to proof after resting for at least three months, and cannot be aged in wood. Chilean Pisco, on the other hand, can be made from a range of 14 grapes, and may be distilled multiple times to proof, as well as aged in wood. These small differences in production lend to significant differences in flavor and notes -- try one of each and let your bartender be your guide. At Chipe Libre, we highly recommend the “Chi (from the South) Flight”, featuring Diaguitas Reservado Transparente 40, Brujas de Salamanca Reservado 40, and Mistral Nobel Piscos -- the Brujas was our favorite; super smooth, with notes of caramel. Looking for a proper cocktail? Try one of the many flavored Pisco Sours (Pisco + Egg white) -- the basil is super refreshing!
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Once you’ve gotten your favorite people a goodie, hop a Lime scooter to dinner at Margo on Isidora Goyenechea in Las Condes. I’ll let the photos do the talking, but do be sure to order the “Plateada” with Sweetcorn Puree, a traditional chilean dish, as well as the “Prawns with creamed Mote” and “Octopus with Chimichurri on Pea puree”. ​

For Nick, this was his first race since ACL-surgery a little over a year ago. He chose to race Master’s in order to give himself the opportunity to return to racing with a little less internal pressure, and to allow himself the time to get back into the swing of things -- worked out pretty well as his knee felt 110%, and he won his category. YEW! 
​

If you haven't been to Sedona, do yourself a favor, and book a ticket, Now. Seriously, do it.

Sedona is located in central Arizona and known for it's red rock, deep canyons, pine trees, and extensive network of trails for both hiking and mountain biking. Long rocky slabs lead way to stair-stepping red chunky rocks line with prickly pear cactus. Technical climbing is a thing, and Sedona mileage is not like you're typical backyard mileage -- think power move after power move after power move. The sun rises early, and darkness falls quickly.

Roam Bike Fest "West" took place November 8-10 as 350 women descended on the Red Agave Resort for the world's largest bike festival for women. The festival started early on Friday, with VIP rides and product demos. Each brand held a mini "clinic" in the afternoon and a "Happy Hour" around dinnertime. 

On the daily, women could go out and ride on their own, or participate in a scheduled ride with the various brands. 

For both East and West Roam Bike Fest, I attended as a Dakine athlete, leading rides. In Sedona, we were lucky enough to have a solid group of ladies along for a "Hi-Line" ride, one of the more challenging trails in the area, as well as a huge group for an intermediate ride on Broken Arrow. With a little bit of coaching, and some line-choice help, we all made it down in one piece, all smiles! Each day, as we meandered back to home-base at The Red Agave, the change in the girl's confidence level was something to see -- girls were sending ledges and riding technical downhill bits that they wouldn't even touch over the first half of the ride. Pretty awesome -- this makes for a pretty fun environment and experience for everyone involved. Thanks Roam! I'm already looking forward to next year!

​Kim Hardin

Happy Hour anyone?

Team Dakine/Hydrapak and our raffle winner!

Deep in the Hi Line Vortex

She Shreds!

Less Talky More Bikes, as Roam Says!

Packing your bike for air travel can be daunting.... let us break it down for you!

1. Be sure your seat dropper is all the way down, and hang your bike in a bike rack.
2. Remove both pedals (spacers too if you have them!) and both wheels. Put pedals in ziplock, along with spacers. Put brake chips between brake pads (to prevent caliper being pressed during travel and having to bleed your brakes upon arrival).
3. Remove your brake rotors, and place in ziplock or pouch along base of travel bag. Must be kept flat during travel and not allowed to bend.
4. Remove your stem and attach bars/stem to frame (We prefer to detach at the stem/steerer tube interface vs stem/handlebars, so you keep all your angles the same, and it's simply less bolts to remove).
5. Remove fender and place in bag.
6. Remove chain quick link and place quick link and full chain in ziplock (this allows you to fully tuck the derailleur away in the next step).
7. Remove rear derailleur (leave the hanger on), and zip-tie the derailleur between the rear chain stays. I always run a zip-tie through the attachment bolt at the rear derailleur to hold all the spacers, etc. together during travel.
8. Add foam along the frame if you would like more padding. 
9. Place in your bag and tie down accordingly.
10. Deflate tires slightly, and put wheels in wheelbase along sides of the bike.
11. Stuff your bag full of all your gear!

Of course, bike bags vary in size and layout. While the steps above will help you break down your bike for travel, there may be an extra bike-specific step to add.

Note: Before flying, be sure to check with your airline about weight and size restrictions. Currently, American airlines will let you fly your bike for $35 if the bag is less than 50#! There are also embargo's throughout the world that may impact your ability to fly a bike with a certain airline into a certain country. Do your homework, and check these details! 

Oh, and don't carry CO2 in your bike bag- it's unlikely to be found, but very possible you'll get your boarding pass taken away while boarding at 11pm in Colombia, and bags taken off the plan while police search your bags. Oops. At least they let us back on the plane... eventually!

Once you get to where you're going, simply reverse the process! 

​

See you at the airport,
Kim Hardin

When choosing a handlebar, first consider your riding style. Do you prefer XC, DH, Enduro, or are you a cruiser? Are you a petite female who prefers riding DH, or a tall lanky man who races XC? 

Flat vs. Riser Bars:
Bars vary from a flat bar (0mm rise) to a medium rise (20mm), to hi-rise (35/40mm). Generally speaking, a flat bar will pull your body low and to the front. Your steering will be very precise at lower speeds and on flat trails, as more weight is distributed over the front wheel. However, on steeper trails, riding can become challenging due to the forward biased body position over the front wheel. 

On a high rise bar, your weight is more evenly distributed as the body position is more open, and torso more vertical, shifting weight rearwards, in comparison to a flat bar. This allows for easier unweighting of the front wheel, and generally better descending than a flat bar. However, at lower speeds and flat trails, steering is less precise, lending the rider to actively ride farther forward to weight the front wheel, and maintain maximal control. 

Bars vs. Spacers:
Overall bar height is affected by the rise of the handlebar, but also the number of spacers under the stem.

To break it down, riser bars affect vertical height only. Adding or removing spacers (under the stem), on the other hand, affect vertical height as well as horizontal reach. Better said, if you go from zero to four spacers under your bars (keeping the same stem length), your reach distance will decrease, while total bar height (ground to bars) will increase. If you go the opposite direction, from 4 to 0 spacers, your reach distance will increase, and bar height decrease.

Width: 
Generally speaking, wider bars are for more aggressive riding, while narrower are more of a standard on XC bikes. Wider bars generally mean greater leverage and stability, however, may be uncomfortable for smaller riders as the grip is wide (mind your shoulders too!). Not to mention, wider bars can be a challenge for narrow trails. 

Sweep:
Sweep is relative to wrist and shoulder positioning. A brand will generally have the same sweep across the entirety of their handlebars. Don't overthink this one. Pay more attention to rise when choosing the bar.

Materials: 
Aluminum or carbon? Carbon is generally lighter, stronger, and much more stiff than aluminum. This translates into increased vibration dampening, and precise control. Nick and I have been running carbon bars for years, and are big fans!

So we've talked about a lot -- how do I choose a handlebar? Mountain biking is a very dynamic sport, across varying terrain. Everyone has a personal preference regarding comfort -- on a mid-rise bar, if you generally run a tall spacer stack, and are on a longer DH bike, perhaps try a hi-rise bar and shorten the stack. This will push your grip position horizontally away from you (increase the reach) putting your weight more over the front of the bike (greater traction!), while keeping same bar height. Or keep that mid-rise bar and play with spacer stack height. If you're racing XC, start with a 

Generally speaking, there's no one rise that's recommended for everyone, as its truly personal preference, and much related to your riding style. Moral of the story... next time you need a new bar, try a different rise. Play with spacer height as well and ride a variety of trails.

Our Favorite Handlebar:
​
Our go to handlebar is Race Face's SixC 35mm carbon bar, 35 mm rise. It allows for a wide range of versatility in terms of bar height. If we're riding a longer bike, we can have a smaller spacer stack as well as the ability for the grip position to shift forward (longer reach) as we remove spacers, while maintaining an aggressive riding position. Realistically, we could go to a 20mm rise, and add more spacers under the bars to get the same vertical bar height, however, the reach would be shorter than our current setup, not our preference.

The SixC carbon bar currently comes at 800mm, however, both of us prefer a 760mm bar. The bar comes with graduated cutting marks on each end for cutting purposes. We measure twice, and cut once -- the bars were noticeably more stiff at 760mm compared to 800mm, but not so stiff they are uncomfortable or bother the joints. 

We've been running the SixC for 4 years now, and have never broken a bar. They are lightweight, strong, and offer a good "feel" while riding. Regardless of our riding and racing, we put on new bars every year as they are our main connection to the bike outside of the pedals. Not worth it for a hairline crack or a weakened bar, albeit we have never had any issues or seen any hairline fractures. We've beaten and abused these bars over the years, and they are without a doubt the best on the market for feel and longevity. Not to mention they come in a variety of colors so you can color match your bike!

Next time you're shopping for bars, give the SixC a try. If you have a 20mm rise already, try a 35mm rise and ride a variety of terrain. Learn what you like, and take into consideration your riding style and preferences. 

See you on the trail,
​Kim and Nick Hardin

First things first, Dumonde Tech knows whats up.

Dumonde Tech was started in 1985 around the motorsports industry: clutch oils, engine oils and 2-stroke mix. In the bicycle world, they are known for their array of greases, and chain lubes, specifically the Lite (yellow) and Original Bicycle Chain Lubes. 

What follows is an unbiased a review as possible of the Lite and Original Dumonde Tech Chain lubes. The only reported difference between the two is concentration, according to DMT -- with the light being less concentrated for easier application and optimum performance. 

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Consider this review relative to riding mountain bikes 5 to 6 days a week, primarily in the PNW (loam > fine dust). 

How much do you know about chain lube?

The Dumonde Tech Lite and Original chain lubes are literally liquid plastic that through polymerization (via heat and pressure while riding) forms long-lasting "plating" on all chain surfaces.

But really, what does this mean? 

​It means that the plating bonds to the chain -- the lube literally can't be washed off! This makes for extremely environmentally friendly, durable lube that lasts and lasts and lasts. Your drivetrain can thank you later, as the more you use Dumonde Tech lube, the cleaner your chain and drivetrain will actually get -- It literally purges old (other) lube. This means that your equipment will last longer, saving you money and time. 

Fun fact: Before using Dumonde Tech, we would go through two cassettes and 2-3 chains + chainrings each a year. However, once we started using Dumondetech, we can get through the entire season on the same cassette. Now, we only replace my chain and chainring really once a season.

​---------------------------

Let's get down to the nitty gritty...

Application: Directions state, " Thoroughly clean and dry your chain before the first application of Dumonde Tech (you'll only need to do this once). Apply sparingly and wipe off excess lube with a cotton rag so that the chain's outer surface appears dry. Ride immediately.

In our experience, Dumonde Tech chain lube is easy to apply. It's thick enough that the drops land on the links as it come out of the bottle, but not so runny it leaves a spray of lube across the ground. Skin friendly too, in the event you get some on your hands...

Durability: Dumonde Tech recommends reapplying only when you start to HEAR the chain, not via appearance. 

As we mentioned earlier, the lube is literally liquid plastic, so it can't be washed off. It literally bonds to chain links, extending the life of your equipment!

Despite this, regardless of lube need (via sound of course), we clean and lube our chains before every ride. Even if the ride is only a few miles -- it's more a habit than anything else. With that in mind, it's not very often we hear our chain, especially because living in the PNW, our dirt is more loam-based than other locations. With that said, in the hot summer months, or upon travel to more dusty locations, we will REALLY NEED chain lube. 

Light vs Original: Relative to mountain biking, we use the original, more concentrated version when conditions are harsh. Think wet, muddy, dusty, gritty. Or.... primo conditions, but a long ride (20+ miles), where we really want to be sure we've got plenty of lube on our chain for the extent of the ride. Otherwise, we primarily use the light lube, for optimum performance: a proper balance between function and lube. You could perhaps argue we should do the opposite, however, I prefer to run light, and lube more often, than run thicker and lube only every so often. Regardless, the durability of the lube makes it particularly good for wet, sloppy conditions.

Smell: It may not smell like lavender, but it doesn't have a strong chemical smell either. 

Sound: In our experience, when mountain biking, we can ride around 40 miles in the PNW on "Lite" lube before we hear our chain. Add about 15 miles for the "Original" Lube, and that's one happy cyclist. Road cycling you can expect these numbers to increase significantly (less dirt/dust, etc). 

Chain Breakage? Since riding Dumondetech, we have never broken a chain (outside of your crazy mechanical). Coincidence, I think not.

All in all, we have been using Dumonde Tech for the last five years. We use it in the form of chain lube, and various greases for our bike, as well as motorcycles. Based out of Kirkland, Washington, we choose to support PNW local, and have experienced for ourselves the ridiculous durability of the Dumonde Tech product, and the extended life of our equipment. If you haven't tried Dumonde Tech, do it now!


Pro-tip: Dumonde Tech chain lube is safe for use all across your bike -- we even use it in our hubs!

Cheers,
​Nick & Kim Hardin